The one bad thing is that a fool has stropped the top of each blade with a power strop. This is a much nicer example than it sounds. This hole permits a nail, or something similar, to pass through it in order to tighten or loosen the rod.
So, if you need a blade for it, you'll have to search for it as the blade to this one is a unique dimension. These two cutters are ground to a straight edge, so that they operate just like a paring chisel. Despite all its clever features, it wasn't very popular, interracial dating art and is now a very collectible tool. That is probably when it was recieved and is a believable date for when it would have been made.
Check that the receiver isn't damaged where it pivots about the rod - it can crack or break out there. Just too bad the throat is seriously damaged. The fence is secured to the arm with a thumb screw. The receiver is secuted to the main casting with a rod that screw through the cheeks of the plane the rod is slotted on the left side.
The rosewood is in great condition with oiginal finish. The nickel on this plane shines like new and I could find no evidence of any nickel loss. This pivoting portion has a turned knob, which is gripped in the other hand, and a clamping mechanism to secure the blade. There is a small hang hole drilled in the rear.
On the chart the S and B foundry mark seem to end in Like Like. These screws are often seized in place from the plane's sitting idle for so long. The later models have hardwood knobs that are painted black, while even later models have composition or plastic knobs. Not unusual to see multiple dates on the various parts of planes.
- The cutter is single it has no cap iron.
- The majority of nickel is gone, but it has a pleasing appearance.
- Instead, the lever cap is a japanned cast iron piece that is activated by thumb screw.
- It has a top section that arches forward of the blade to form the front portion of the sole.
- May be from the war years.
This plane follows that same course. There is some pitting on the right side which impacts the grading, but this is a nice user example. It has the origal instructions, the original envelope with extra spurs, and the original screwdriver.
You be the judge whether the cam rest should or shouldn't be aluminum, but keep in mind that there are reproduction aluminum cam rests out there. Of course, this is pure speculation, but it does seem strange that an iron plane slinging company would take to making a plane that sure has a goodly amount of wood as part of it. These kind are pushed or pulled, and are suited for smoothing the bottom of a groove, mortice, or whatever, which is lower than the general surface of the piece being worked. It can be found applied to the totes on the Bailey and Bed Rock bench planes, special purpose planes such as this one, sliding bevels, try squares, etc.
Antique and Vintage Stanley Tools
Generally, the latest feature on the tool, in this case the label, is the more accurate clue to the plane's approximate date of manufacture. The earlier models have a semi-circular cutout on the top of the plane, moose between the two cutters. These should be redone properly with oil stones before you use them. The wood is clearly old mut not original. The front brass handle lug is also polished.
The adjustable portion of the sole carries the cutter, and can be raised or lowered to decrease or increase, respectively, the width of the chamfer. Wooden planes, because they are dedicated to a particular task, only need to have their irons set and then it's off to the planing. You can find first model examples that are modified to accept a homemade depth stop.
The tshoe is then slipped onto the rod over the large diameter so that the shoe is above the arched portion of the main casting. This number is often stamped on the face of the cutter, up near the heel. The sides and sole have been cleaned a bit by a collector and lack patina. Otherwise it is a solid fine. The use of the stop might not be intuitive to most, but it's very easy to use and rather clever in its simple operation.
Stanley claimed that this rabbet cut was particularly useful for installing the weatherstripping on the lock jamb and the head of the door. This can be a real pain in the arse, and Stanley took steps to address it. Stanley did not originate this idea. This page is the best resource I know for dating them. Rather than try to create a formal type study, I decided to focus more on the practical goal of simply establishing criteria for dating the planes within the narrowest possible time frame.
It would take several pages to describe all the changes made to the plane over its long period of production. Thankfully, the last of the aluminum abberations. The frog can be adjusted forward or backward somewhat to regulate the opening of the mouth. The threaded rod has a hole drilled through it on its end.
The Superior Works Stanley Blood and Gore Planes 71 - 87
The head has a flat on one side to be flush against the wall. The aperture for the arm should noticeably be to the left. To accomodate these two changes, the turned knob was moved to a position slight lower on the clamping mechanism and the lever cap screw was repositioned to the same face as the turned knob. The box is not great, free dating app better but it isn't a total wreck either. Sometimes the lever cap is snapped and repaired.
Block Plane Dating
The hold down screw is sweetheart marked. The rod is then positioned to the desired depth relative to the sole of the main casting and the screw of the shoe is tightened onto the rod. The lacquer on the brass trim has darkened a bit and is flaking a bit, which is why I did not go for Fine, quiz but it is certainly as crisp as they come. The earliest examples have the patent date proudly embossed above the handle.
However, this is one plane where it makes some sense to have the plane as light as possible. Different features have different patent dates. Features not seen after that point.
How to Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age and Type (Type Study Tool)
It does not have the handy hokds and it also has no brass on it at all. If this clamping piece is broken or missing, good luck trying to make it look original. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! Sometimes you'll find examples where the thumb screw is replaced with a slotted round head screw. The crack is easy to spot by examining the plane from its backside, the flat side of the plane.
Wood and Shop
These bottoms are used to cut hollows and rounds, or a nosing. While there are still some gaps and inconsistencies across models some of which appear within the published type studies of the nos. The totes can be positioned anywhere along the length of the handle and anywhere around the handle. The rod is slipped through the round opening for it, atop the arched portion of the main casting, so that the smaller diameter is downward. The beading gauge is then fit into the forward hole of the sliding section, with the beading gauge's rabbet fitting snugly against the sliding section's skate.
- Since the gauge is centered, the plane can be worked left or right handed in other words, reversed so that it won't split out the grain on the end of the door.
- These models are fairly scarce.
- At the same time the shoe was added, a round depth gauge rod was made part of the shoe clamping assembly.
None of the numbers that follow appear on the parts. It has no marking on the cap, except a B on the underside. To make matched boards, you cut the grooves and tongues on all the stock using the appropriate cutters for those tasks.